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Letter from Berlin: an Architecture Manque

The permanent state of devastation that once characterised the city has not entirely been eradicated from every quarter, notably small parts of the east, and especially from the railway one can still pick out abandoned zones. But the re-establishment of one of Europe’s, indeed the world’s great cities proceeds apace. It has slowed, but perhaps not for long, from the hectic spiral of the 1990s, and the speculators are less raucous. The 21st century brings a new realism, and never more so than since September 2001. And Berlin remains never having had a master plan (not even with Hitler) a great sprawl, with something in common with Los Angeles, or even Beijing.

That realism of course was always there. It made possible the superb creation of the Jewish Museum, completed last year, and finally full of exhibits (see capsules September). This remarkable building, designed by Daniel Libeskind, commemorates the long contribution of the historic community to the city, as well as the victims of the holocaust, What, in contrast, does the newly restored Potsdamerplatz commemorate? Festooned with signature-architect designed towers, we might today say it is a memorial to, late 20th capitalism, and its crazy optimism. A seemingly well intended concept of recreating the former commercial pre-war centre, it grew greedy with concessions. Developers were allowed, by dispensation, to build up to 300 ft, or say 27 storeys. Twenty-nine individual blocks have been built in fact. Respected international stars, such as Arato Isozaki, Rafael Moneo, Helmut Jahn and Richard Rogers, were assigned ‘pitches’ to do their utmost. These results, now evident, are less than impressive. It is a bit like being on the London Wall, twenty years later. In Berlin, whatever the concession, you are still building in a planning straitjacket. The only successes, as in other areas, occur when an isolated building breaks through. Frank Gehry’s DG Bank building is a recent example. What is needed in Berlin is panache, with a dash of irony, like a Prussian cavalryman. Gehry’s building, at the Western end of Unter den Linden, demonstrates such qualities. A uniformly controlled exterior in well detailed glazing and stone cladding is conservative except for the fact that the glazing to the 3rd floor level is suddenly canted outwards, like a knight’s visor. Once inside the lobby, the rooflighting is dramatic to the inner court, revealing Gehry’s inimitable fish-like, vaulted roof structure. But a further surprise is in store: the tour de force is a large conference centre, sculpted in the form of a loose representation of a horse’s head. This creates a dramatic even surreal ambience in the interior space provided.

A similar, dramatic inner court occurs in the new British Embassy (on its old site), by Michael Wilford. Inside the darkly conventional exterior of the embassy one finds a different world of colour and excitement – cool Britannia for export. A masterly atrium roof allows the maximum possible internal light factor to bring the colour out. Wilford was well in the running here for this year’s Stirling Prize in London with this building.

All this exists against the precedent of Norman Foster’s masterly and all-embracing historical, high-technology representation of the Reichstag – a project that no German architect was allowable to be let loose on by the authorities for complex reasons. (There were enough local contenders of high talent). Foster won the competition against other foreigners – Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, and Pi de Bruijin of the Netherlands.

Foster’s great parliament building is Berlin’s crowning triumph today. In the new century a different Berlin will gradually it is hoped emerge, more concerned with improving the stock of residential apartment. There is enough modernist precedent to build on. It is now a question of just getting on with it, without rhetoric, as the Smithsons used to say.

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